Four coves halfway between Rethymno and Heraklion
BaliA fishing village turned hillside resort with calm bays, snorkelling and the Melidoni cave up the road
- Author
- By George K., Crete travel specialist
- Updated
- Updated 13 September 2026
- Reading time
- 6 min read
Photo: Nadiia Astakhova · Pexels
Bali at a glance
- Region
- Bali · Rethymno
- Known for
- Four coves halfway between Rethymno and Heraklion
- Best months
- May, Jun, Sep
- Getting there
- Athens (Piraeus) ferry 9-10h
- Character
- Couples · Snorkelling · Calm bays
- 30 km to Rethymno, 45 km to Heraklion
- 50 min from Heraklion airport
- 4 coves: Livadi, Varkotopos, Limani, Karavostasi
- Melidoni cave 15 min, Arkadi 30 min
- Steep village: expect steps
- Best: June, September
01Why go to Bali
Why go to Bali
Bali is a small resort built on the hillsides above four coves on the north coast, 30 km east of Rethymno and 45 km west of Heraklion. The bays of Livadi, Varkotopos, Limani and Karavostasi are sheltered and calm, the village climbs steeply between them, and the Melidoni cave, Arkadi monastery and the fishing village of Panormos are all within 30 minutes. It is a hotel-with-a-pool base rather than a nightlife resort.
Bali was a fishing hamlet with a Venetian-era harbour until the coast road and the first hotels arrived in the 1980s. It kept its shape: a village strung along a steep road that drops into one cove after another, each with its own beach, tavernas and hotels.
The coves face north and east and are protected by headlands, so the water is usually calm and clear enough for snorkelling off the rocks. Limani, the old harbour bay, still has fishing boats and the best tavernas; Livadi, the largest bay, has the family hotels.
Bali sits at the midpoint of the north coast, which makes it a practical base for both Rethymno and Heraklion. Arkadi monastery is 30 minutes, the Melidoni cave 15, and the fishing village of Panormos with its own small beaches is 10 minutes west.
“Bali is built on steps and coves. Pick a hotel near the bay you want to swim in and you will barely need the car.”
- Couples
- Snorkelling
- Calm bays
- Central base
Show Bali on the map
02Where to stay in Bali
Where to stay in Bali
Each area below suits a different trip. Compare live rates on the Bali hotels page, or ask Touristas AI to shortlist for your dates.
Livadi
The largest bay and the family hotels
The first cove from the main road, with the longest beach, sunbeds and most of the big hotels. Easiest for families and for anyone who wants to avoid the steps of the upper village.
- Longest beach
- Family hotels
- Water sports
- Flat access
Varkotopos
The middle cove
A smaller sandy bay between Livadi and the harbour with tavernas on the water and apartments on the slope above. The best all-round swim in the village.
- Sandy beach
- Waterside tavernas
- Calm water
Limani (the harbour)
Fishing boats and the original village
The old harbour cove with fishing boats, the best fish tavernas and the most character. The beach is small; the boat trips leave from here.
- Fish tavernas
- Boat trips
- Village feel
- Evening walks
Karavostasi
The last, quietest cove
A small bay at the end of the road, with a beach bar and clear water. Fewer people than the other three even in August.
- Quiet
- Snorkelling
- Beach bar
Local partners we have visited
- Book direct
Kipos Hotel
Rethymno Old Town · from €75/night
- Book direct
Eolides Villas
Lampini, South Rethymno · from €95/night
- Book direct
Villa Neonis
Spili · from €95/night
03The best beaches near Bali
The best beaches near Bali
- 1
Livadi
Long sandy family bay
The biggest beach with sunbeds and shallow water
- Water
- Calm, sandy bottom
- Access
- Flat, by the main road
- Best for
- Families
- 2
Varkotopos
Sheltered sandy cove
Tavernas on the sand and calm water
- Water
- Clear, shallow
- Access
- Steps from the village road
- Best for
- Couples, families
- 3
Limani
Harbour cove
Small beach beside the fishing boats and the best tavernas
- Water
- Clear, deeper
- Access
- Village centre
- Best for
- Lunch and a swim
- 4
Karavostasi
Quiet end cove
Clear water and rocks for snorkelling
- Water
- Clear, calm
- Access
- End of the village road
- Best for
- Snorkelling, quiet swims
04Things to do in Bali
Things to do in Bali
A realistic day plan, in the order a local would do it.
Morning · 2 hours
Snorkel the coves
Karavostasi and the rocks at Limani have the clearest water. Masks and fins from the beach desks at Livadi.
Afternoon · 2 hours
Melidoni cave
Fifteen minutes inland. A single large chamber with stalactites and the 1824 memorial. Cool at 17°C even in August; bring a layer.
Half day · 3-4 hours
Arkadi monastery
Thirty minutes south-west through the Rethymno foothills. The Venetian church facade and the powder-store memorial; combine with lunch in the village of Amnatos.
Afternoon · 3 hours
Panormos
Ten minutes west, a fishing village with a sandy beach, a Byzantine basilica ruin and harbour tavernas. Quieter than Bali.
Full day · 5 hours
Rethymno old town
Thirty minutes west. The Fortezza, the Venetian harbour and the old town lanes; back in Bali for an evening swim.
Full day · 5-6 hours
Boat trip along the coast
Boats from the harbour run east to the sea caves and beaches with no road access, with swimming stops. Calmest in June and September.
05Eating in Bali
Eating in Bali
Harbour fish and Rethymno mountain cooking
- Grilled fish at Limani
- The harbour tavernas serve what the village boats bring in; sea bream and red mullet are the usual catch.
- Boureki
- Courgette, potato and mizithra pie, the Rethymno and Chania summer dish.
- Dakos
- Barley rusk, tomato, mizithra, olive oil.
- Lamb with stamnagathi
- Lamb with wild chicory in lemon sauce, served in the inland tavernas around Melidoni and Perama.
- Sfakianes pites
- Thin cheese pancakes with honey for dessert.
- Local honey
- The village is named after it; buy thyme honey from the roadside stalls towards Melidoni.
06When to go to Bali
When to go to Bali
Month by month: daytime temperature, how busy it gets, and what is happening.
| Month | Temp | Crowds | Our rating | What is happening |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| May | 23°C | Low | 5 out of 5 | Resorts open; sea 20°C; quiet beaches |
| Jun | 27°C | Medium | 5 out of 5 | Warm sea, long evenings, water parks open |
| Jul | 30°C | High | 3 out of 5 | Peak families and groups; book early |
| Aug | 31°C | Max | 2 out of 5 | Hottest and fullest month; highest prices |
| Sep | 28°C | Medium | 5 out of 5 | Sea at its warmest; crowds thin after the 10th |
| Oct | 24°C | Low | 4 out of 5 | Still swimming; some bars close by month end |
| Nov-Apr | 15°C | Very low | 2 out of 5 | Most resort hotels closed; towns quiet |
07Getting to Bali and getting around
Getting to Bali and getting around
Overnight, limited season
Athens (Piraeus) → Bali
9-10h · seasonal
Overnight, daily
Athens (Piraeus) → Bali
8h 30m to 9h · from €40
- Heraklion airport is 50 minutes by car; Chania airport about 1h 45m. Taxis from Heraklion cost around €70.
- KTEL buses between Rethymno and Heraklion stop on the main road above the village; it is a steep 15-minute walk down.
- A car is worth having for Arkadi, Melidoni and Rethymno; inside the village you walk.
08A harbour with a monastery's name
A harbour with a monastery's name
Ancient Astali
The harbour served the inland city of Axos in antiquity under the name Astali; the modern name Bali comes from the Turkish word for honey, which the area produced.
Venetian harbour
The small port at Limani sheltered Venetian coastal traffic and, later, the monastery of Agios Ioannis Atali on the hill, whose 17th-century church still stands.
Melidoni cave
Fifteen minutes inland, the cave was a sanctuary of Hermes in antiquity. In 1824 several hundred villagers sheltering inside were killed by Ottoman troops; a memorial stands in the main chamber.
Arkadi monastery
Thirty minutes south-west, Arkadi is the symbol of Cretan resistance: in 1866 hundreds of Cretans blew up its powder store rather than surrender to the Ottomans.
- 4
- coves in the village
- 1824
- Melidoni cave tragedy
- 1866
- Arkadi uprising
- 1980s
- first hotels
09Practical tips
Practical tips
Money, health, manners and what changed this year.
Money
- Bali is mid-priced; the big hotels at Livadi sell good half-board deals in June and September.
- Harbour fish is by the kilo; ask the price first. Meat tavernas in the upper village are €12-16 per person.
- Sunbeds are €8-10 for two at Livadi and free at some tavernas if you eat there.
Health and safety
- The nearest hospital is in Rethymno (30 minutes); a doctor's surgery operates in the village in summer.
- The village road is steep and has no pavement in places; take care walking at night.
- The coves are sheltered but the meltemi still brings afternoon chop to Livadi; mornings are flat.
Local manners
- The monastery of Agios Ioannis above the village is a working monastery; visit in the morning and dress modestly.
- Arkadi is a national memorial as much as a monastery: quiet voices, no swimwear.
- Fishermen at Limani sell directly in the morning; buying a fish and taking it to a taverna to cook is normal.
New this year
- Book Livadi hotels early for June and September; Bali has fewer beds than the Heraklion resorts.
- The Melidoni cave is open daily April to October; the path down is slippery, wear proper shoes.
- Coast boat trips are cancelled in strong wind; check the morning of departure.
10Bali questions, answered
Bali questions, answered
Where is Bali in Crete?
On the north coast, 30 km east of Rethymno and 45 km west of Heraklion, roughly halfway between the two. Heraklion airport is about 50 minutes by car.
Is Bali, Crete hilly?
Yes. The village climbs steeply between four coves and most hotels involve steps. Livadi, the first bay, is the flattest; choose accommodation there if steps are a problem.
Which is the best beach in Bali?
Livadi for space and families, Varkotopos for a sheltered swim with tavernas on the sand, Karavostasi for quiet and snorkelling, Limani for lunch by the fishing boats.
Is Bali good for snorkelling?
Yes. The coves are sheltered and clear; Karavostasi and the rocks beside Limani harbour are the best spots, and the boat trips reach caves and beaches along the coast.
What can I visit near Bali?
Melidoni cave (15 minutes), Panormos fishing village (10 minutes), Arkadi monastery (30 minutes), Rethymno old town (30 minutes) and Heraklion with Knossos (45 minutes).
Is there nightlife in Bali?
A few bars in the village and hotel entertainment; nothing like Malia or Hersonissos. Rethymno old town has the bars and is 30 minutes away.
→Next stops from here
Next stops from here
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