Samaria Gorge hike from Chania.

The Samaria Gorge hike is a one-way walk, not a loop. You start on the Omalos plateau, south of Chania, drop into the gorge, and finish at Agia Roumeli on the Libyan Sea. There is no road out of Agia Roumeli. The exit is a boat to Sougia or Chora Sfakion, then a coach back toward Chania. Organised days sell that whole chain as one ticket. If you go independently you still have to buy the boat and arrange the return, and you still cannot walk back up to the bus. Plan seven to nine hours from the plateau entrance to the coast, plus the transfers. From a Chania hotel the day starts early and ends late.

The path is rocky, downhill for most of its length, and about sixteen kilometres. The famous Iron Gates are a narrow passage near the southern end, not the start. Shade comes and goes. In July the stones radiate heat and the water points matter. The gorge is a national park with a seasonal gate. It usually opens from May to October and closes after heavy rain or when rockfall makes the path unsafe. Opening is announced each spring. A website that still lists last year’s dates is not a promise. Check the week you travel, and have Imbros or a coast day ready if the gate is shut.

This walk suits fit hikers who are happy on loose rock for a full day and who understand they will be on their feet until the boat. It does not suit a casual stroll, a bad knee, or a family with young children. There are wardens and other walkers, but it is still a long way if you twist an ankle at the halfway point. Wear shoes you have already walked in. Carry more water than a city day needs, and a little food, because Agia Roumeli is where you eat properly, not the middle of the gorge. The boat at the end is not optional scenery. It is the way out.